Create a Starter Square Stitch...

Turn the Starter Square Stitch over, so you're looking at the "cross" side...

Do another Square Stitch ON TOP OF the "cross" side...

Notice now that it looks like regular Square. We did this same start when we created the Fishy, remember?

If you look at the bottom, you should be able to see the checkerboard pattern.

After completing about an inch of Square...

note, again, the checkerboard pattern. If you don't see this, then you goofed! Continue doing the Square Stitch until you've done enough to go all the way around your wrist PLUS the width of your thumb-nail. This bracelet cannot be loosened or tightened, so the size has to be just right.

Now bend the end you started at over to meet the end you're working with and look at where the loose strands are. In this picture, we have a problem. Can you see it? The blue strand is on the wrong side if we wanted to combine both ends into a seamless pattern. Check out the next picture...

...and you'll see that NOW the strands are placed correctly. Can you see what I'm talking about? You want this blue strand to cover the two pink loops, which was impossible to do above. If you're project looks like the above picture, do ONE MORE Square Stitch and you should now look like this picture.

To double check your strand placement, turn the project sideways, so you can see how the pink side lines up. Notice how the pink strand will overlap the two blue loops? This is exactly what we want to do, so we are ready to continue.

Before we do the magic, lets get our strands ready for feeding. Use your scissors to cut a pointed end on each of your four strands. Do not cut away a large portion of the strand, but cut the strands CLOSE TO THEIR ENDS. These pointed ends will prove QUITE helpful in a minute!

Now bend both ends of your project, so you can see the checkerboard patterns. Lets start with the loose strand which comes out the center of the project(the blue strand on the right). Can you see how we'll need to feed this strand UNDER the little red loop that it's nearest on the other checkerboard?

Use a push-pin, toothpick, or other small, sharp object to pry open or loosen this red loop, as shown here...

Once you've loosened the red loop a bit, the pointed end we cut at the end of that blue strand will make it easy for us to feed through that loop, like this...

...and you should pull that strand to within ½ an inch of completing the pull. Take a GOOD look at this picture, so you'll know you fed the right strand through.

Now lets do the next closest strand to the center, the red strand shown at the bottom. It will need to be fed through the blue loop at the bottom of the other checkerboard, which is the loop I'm loosening here with a push-pin in this picture.

We can feed the red strand through once it's loosened. You might have noted how the blue loop in this picture is damaged. I did this mistakenly using the push-pin a bit too fast. Be VERY CAREFUL when using push-pins! They are EXTREMELY sharp. It actually cut through HALF the width of this strand.

You can pull this strand through to within ½ an inch as well. Note how our strands are not TWISTED in this shot. You need to be careful when initially feeding your strands to be sure they are NOT twisted. It is very tough to correct this problem later, so catch the error NOW if you can.

I'm getting ready to work with the other red strand in this shot. The blue loop it needs to be fed through is lying underneath the blue strand we fed through earlier. Can you see it?

Here's the red strand being fed through. These pointed ends are a real blessing right about now!

Again, pulled almost, but not quite tight. Notice TWO things in this shot: first, that none of the strands are TWISTED, and second, that I made sure the end of the first red strand goes UNDER the second red strand. Take a good look at this picture, imagining what it will look like when pulled together, and you'll see why we did this.

And now for the last strand, the other blue one. It gets fed under a red loop which is covered by the red strand we were just working with above. Also notice the placement of the blue strand we're working with. See how it comes UP and OVER the TOP of the whole shebang?

Feed it through the loop. The other end of this blue strand is the one the pointed end is pointing to. The lower blue strand on the left is the OTHER blue strand, which is lying out of the way right now.

After pulling the last strand almost tight, you should see a jumbled mess that looks like this. Now, slowly start pulling the project tight. Start by pulling ONE blue strand a bit, then pull the OTHER blue strand, then a RED strand, followed by the OTHER red strand, and repeat...

...until you have completely tightened the project, which should look similar to this! Remember "training the boondoggle"? You'll need to put this bracelet aside for AT LEAST EIGHT HOURS before you trim off these loose ends. If you don't wait, the bracelet may come apart on you, as the strands will have loosened up a bit and popped out on you.

After snipping the ends. This one looks a bit odder than usual, because of that damaged loop I made. You'll also notice that the loops made to COMBINE the two ends together are LONGER than the other loops in the project. This is because these loops have to cover TWO strands of the opposite color, instead of just ONE.

Other Seamless Ideas:

• You can use this same technique with other stitches, including Circle, Brick, Super-Brick, and Quad. Stitches like Twist and CorkScrew do not lend themselves to this technique very easily, because of the way their finished stitches like to lie on a curve, versus laying flat, so I'd NOT suggest trying this with one of these two.
• You can incorporate BEADS into your seamless bracelets as well. The one previously shown use the Square Stitch and beads of two different sizes. I showed you one way of inserting BEADS into your project when making a Split Brick combination pull.